ASK YOUR ANTI-AGEING HEALTH & BEAUTY QUESTIONS HERE

image

Get answers from world-leading experts on anti-aging topics here – whether is about preventative healthcare, the latest rejuvenation treatments or the best spas and doctors…

Beautiful skin by world-renowned expert Dr Des Fernandes

image

Cape Town: Beautiful Skin – exclusive guide by Dr Des Fernandes, one of the world’s leading experts on skin care

Scientists are promising us that we are going to live longer but who wants to live longer if it only means that we are going to look and feel old for longer. We have to do something to lengthen our youthful years and shorten our senile period, says leading cosmetic surgeon, Dr Des Fernandes.

The most visible change is in our skin and so we have to learn strategies to keep our skin as young and healthy as possible.:

We know that conventional cosmetics and salon treatments don’t work but fortunately we live in the age of Cosmeceutics. Cosmeceutics are cosmetics that have act like pharmaceutical products. That’s the medicine that photoaged skin needs because photoageing is a vitamin deficiency skin disease caused by exposure to light, and free radicals which destroy vitamins A, E and C and beta carotene in the skin. The medicine for photoageing should at least supply what has been lost by exposure to light:

1. Vitamin A is responsible for regulating the health of DNA in every cell of the body, but in the skin vitamin A is destroyed by exposure to light. Vitamin A is essential for activating enzyme systems and keeping keratinocytes and fibroblasts healthy. If there is insufficient Vitamin A in the skin then no matter what cosmetic you put on it, the cells cannot really be healthy. Vitamin A and Beta Carotene therefore has to be part of daily skin-care routine for everyone who is exposed to light!

2. Vitamin C and E are also destroyed by exposure to light. They are fundamental components of the antioxidant brigade that protects cellular membranes and DNA. They are essential for metabolism and maintenance of cellular health. For our skin’s health we are compelled to address their deficiency every time we go out into sunlight.

Intrinsic ageing of the skin is also not inevitable. It is really a wasting skin disease caused by:

1. free radicals;
2. deficiencies of hormones, vitamins, and micronutrients
3.and other essential factors like cellular electrical charges, that dwindle as we get older.

Topical Vitamin A and antioxidants can reverse certain aspects of photoageing. Vitamin A by itself has a great effect, as does vitamin C, but the combination with a full antioxidant brigade is the most effective. Until this basic fact of vitamin replacement is understood, the preservation of young skin will remain elusive! But remember, replenishment of vitamins has to be combined with sensible protection from the sun without impairing vitamin D production.

I believe that there are two significant rules to revolutionise skin care:

Rule 1: Every skin care regime should have Vitamins A, C, E and Beta Carotene included at least once a day.

Rule 2: vitamin replenishment should start soon after we become exposed to sunlight. That means we start replenishment soon after walking! New creams specifically for very young children need to be introduced.

To make sure that people could protect themselves adequately, I created a laboratory to make this ideal skin care range without any added preservatives or perfumes. This product supplies the skin with vitamins A, C, E , panthenol and beta carotene.

VITAMIN A. Sunlight causes not only a lower concentration of Vitamin A in the skin but prolonged exposure can also lower the blood levels of Vitamin A. We all walk around with a deficiency of Vitamin A in every part of skin that is exposed to light. We need to replenish that Vitamin A every day otherwise our Vitamin deficit is translated into skin damage – not only after being in blisteringly hot sunlight, but also on cloudy days because UV-A can penetrate through clouds!

We can’t rely on diet to replenish this Vitamin A because once Vitamin A has been depleted, it takes up to a week to restore the normal levels. We have to restore normal levels of Vitamin A through the skin itself.

Women have an added disadvantage because their vitamin A levels fall each time they menstruate and so in reality they are more susceptible to sun damage at that time.

Some people believe that retinol (vitamin A alcohol) is actually the true form of vitamin A. Retinoic acid is just the acid form of Vitamin A and we now know that all the various forms of Vitamin A are interchangeable in the skin cells. The truth is that whatever form of vitamin A you put on your skin, it is going to be changed by the skin cells into retinyl palmitate. I prefer to use retinyl palmitate for basic replenishment of cutaneous vitamin A because it is the least irritant form of vitamin A, and under normal conditions constitutes almost 90% of the vitamin A in the skin. Not only that but palmitic acid has an essential role in the maintenance of healthy cell walls and is also a source of energy that is required to create the various forms of vitamin A.

Beta Carotene is often called vitamin A but it is not true vitamin A. ,It can be converted into 2 molecules of retinaldehyde.. Beta Carotene is one of the most powerful antioxidants found in nature whereas Vitamin A is not. In other words Beta Carotene counteracts the effects of the sun whereas Vitamin A is actually destroyed by the sun. So we really need both Vitamin A and beta Carotene in our skins
Vitamin A makes the skin thicker. And normalizes the skin cells. It potentiates the immune cells to keep the skin healthy and reduces pigmentation. The waterproofing barrier of the skin is enhanced and the very surface horny layer of the skin is compacted and appears smoother.

The collagen making cells of the ski (Fibroblasts) are stimulated to make healthy collagen and natural moisturising factors. This also plumps out the skin. Sebum secretion is normalised and so the incidence of acne is reduced. Oily skin becomes normal. However, if one has dry skin to start with, then Vitamin A initially makes it worse before it boosts the natural moisturisation.

The skin takes on a healthier hue because of the better blood supply. This is usually noticed in older sallow skins.If the skin is sun damaged then Vitamin A helps to restore normal soft skin and reduces the keratoses. Old wrinkled skin gets smoother.

People with skin conditions like atopy (where the natural waterproofing barrier has been impaired) can also use a cream like this. Topical vitamin A may help to re-establish a healthy horny layer. A product without perfumes or preservatives and proper doses of vitamin A and the other antioxidants can give stunning improvement of skin.

In order to protect the skin each day, yet allow for the formation of natural vitamin D, a low SPF should be used for simple “round the town” sun exposure. The low SPF can be augmented in effect if the day cream has been fortified by the addition of natural vitamin A and antioxidants. These antioxidants will reduce the damage from UV light.

Vitamin C is essential for the production of collagen and also for reducing pigmentation blemishes. Unfortunately vitamin C (ascorbic acid)is unstable in cosmetic formulations, despite the various claims made by different companies about the stability of their products. If you are going to use ascorbic acid then make sure that the product is less than three weeks old when you buy it otherwise you are buying a much weaker product than you expect. A more stable, and more effective form of vitamin C is magnesium (or sodium) ascorbyl phosphate that will give you its strongest effects for about five months. I prefer to use a product that is specially made for the client to ensure the greatest efficacy.

Vitamin E is an oil phase antioxidant and is essential for the preservation of cell walls. Vitamin E depends on adequate amounts of vitamin C to regain activity after it has dealt with a free radical.

Summary

The skin ages because we lose essential light sensitive vitamins every time we go out into light. The scientific method to counteract this damage is to replace the lost vitamins every single day and preferable both morning and evening. Vitamin A is the key molecule that maintains safe, healthy skin and it should be used by every single person on this planet every day in order to neutralize the accelerating damage from a thinner ozone layer.

For more information: www.environ.co.za and www.renaissancebsi.co.za

UK stockists of Environ skin creams: T: + 44 (0)20 8450 2020.

Women confused by anti-ageing claims, says new research by Olay

image

London: It’s fair to say that UK women now have more choice than ever when it comes facial anti-ageing solutions. From innovative cosmetic surgery procedures to topical so called ‘cosmeceuticals’ and sophisticated skin-care, there’s never been a wider range of beauty solutions available on the market.

However, the latest anti-ageing consumer research, commissioned by Olay Regenerist with YouGov, shows that only 4% of UK women are actually opting to undertake more drastic cosmetic procedures and increasing numbers are confused about which so-called ‘wonder ingredients’ are really worth it. So what are their main concerns and what’s the solution to this most modern of beauty dilemmas?

The Pressure To Look Good

A recent YouGov survey of 1,152 adults commissioned by Olay Regenerist, leading experts in anti-ageing skincare, revealed the signs of ageing that concerned UK women most were a loss of elasticity or sagging (44%), wrinkles (43%) and fine lines (28%). “I hear from women every day about their concerns and complaints about the visible signs of ageing. In my experience, American women tend to be more worried about wrinkles, whereas women in the UK are more inclined to accept some fine lines as a natural part of the ageing process,” says beauty industry expert Wendy Lewis, celebrity image enhancement coach and author of Plastic Makes Perfect.

Perhaps this more tolerant attitude to Mother Nature is the reason why, rather reassuringly, only 4% of British women admit to having had a cosmetic procedure. Even with a seemingly endless supply of makeover shows on our screens, a whopping 60% of women said they had not only never had any augmentation, but that they wouldn’t consider having any in the future (64% even said they only saw it as a ‘last resort’). So why are we so reluctant to head for the Cosmetic surgeon’s office?

The fear of looking ‘unnatural’ often puts people off having something done. Cost (44%), potential side-effects (43%) and unknown end results (37%) were the three most popular reasons women cited for why they wouldn’t have cosmetic procedures in the futureSo with UK women mostly unwilling to submit themselves to a procedure, they are more likely to opt for a topical cream to help them keep wrinkles at bay. But even this can be a source of frustration and confusion for consumers.

‘Cosmeceuticals’ and Confusion

It seems that even though we’re more aware than ever of the latest developments in skincare, we Brits are still confused as to what an effective anti-ageing regime should actually consist of. According to the survey, 56% of women maintain a simple cleansing, toning and moisturising routine as part of their anti-ageing tactics, with 44% adding diet and exercise as an important part of their regime too.

But in a beauty market flooded with anti-ageing ‘buzzwords’ such as retinols, co-enzymes and peptides, UK women can find it hard to navigate through the hype to find what works for their skin. According to the YouGov survey, almost half of women (43%) are confused by claims as to which ingredients really work.

This concern was highest amongst 35-44 year olds, the very group that tend to be most concerned with preserving their looks and achieving a more youthful complexion. In fact, this confusion can lead to a deep mistrust of what consumers see as marketing – only 12% of women surveyed indicated that scientific claims made on packaging had any influence when they were looking to buy an anti-ageing product.

The Solution

When it comes to buying an anti-ageing cream, the YouGov survey reveals women really do vote with their wallets, opting for well-established, trusted brands (57%) over others and noting price as an important part of their choice (52%). It seems that amidst all the hype and hyperbole over the latest ‘miracle’ ingredients, women seek reassurance from brands they trust to deliver the goods.

The Olay Regenerist range, one of the leading brands professionals and beauty experts recommend, is an ideal choice for those seeking effective and affordable anti-ageing skincare with proven efficacy. Its star ingredient, the peptide Pal KTTKS, has shown to be effective at improving visible skin texture and wrinkles, and acts as a signal to encourage the regeneration of skin’s appearance. Combining this important peptide in a unique Amino-Peptide Complex with Niacinamide (a hardworking B vitamin complex that has a key role in evening out skin tone and strengthening the skin’s barrier defences) Regenerist has been shown to have twice the regenerating effect of skin’s appearance versus untreated skin. It delivers dramatic anti-ageing results before considering more drastic anti-ageing measures.

And the results speak for themselves. One bottle of Regenerist is sold every two seconds worldwide(1). Regenerist delivers real results at a more affordable price than some ‘miracle’ creams. Which just goes to show that women really do know what they want -anti-ageing protection from a brand they trust to help them look younger.

Harley Street Medical Skin Clinic, Harley Street, London

image

20% discount on all treatments
Harley Street Medical Skin Clinic
98 Harley Street
London
W1G 7HZ
T: + 44 (0)20 7935 0986
Website: www.harleystreetskin.co.uk
Email: enquiries@harleystreetskin.co.uk

About the Harley Street Medical Skin Clinic
The Harley Street Medical Skin Clinic, offers the best advice and treatments to protect, repair and cosmetically enhance the appearance and texture of your skin, all from our conveniently located clinic, in the heart of London. Dr Aamer Khan is one of the most experienced medical professionals in the UK in the field of injectables and beauty aesthetics, including fillers and body sculpting such as SmartLipo.