Dermalogica launches powerful new anti-ageing skincare


Dermalogica has launched a new range of anti-ageing skincare with a powerful mix of ingredients to fight the biochemical causes of skin ageing.

AGE Smart™ which flew off the shelves after its recent US launch contains innovative technology and ingredients. Two of the star products the Antioxidant Hydramist which zaps the skin with antioxidants and the MAP-15 Regenerator in which a revolutionary powder that turns into a wrinkle-fighting cream on contact with the skin.

AGE Smart™ which has gone on sale in the US and UK via salon and selected online outlets works by impacting the main biochemical reactions which result in the signs of ageing. These are chemical reactions which occur within the skin and include: Generation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) – also known as free radicals; the generation of Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs) and the development of Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs)

ROS include oxygen ions, free radicals and peroxides and are generally very small molecules which are highly reactive due to the presence of unpaired electrons. During times of environmental stress, ROS levels can increase dramatically, causing considerable damage to cell structures. Studies have shown that UV-induced damage to the skin is in part caused by ROS.

Lipid peroxidation also results from ROS damage to cell membranes, leading to premature ageing, skin cancer and cell death. AGE Smart™ uses a combination of antioxidants (including white tea and vitamins C and E) to scavenge free radicals; glucosamine, lactic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate to treat hyperpigmentation and bioflavonoids (white tea and liquorice) to treat broken capillaries.

MMPs are enzymes which, when activated, control tissue degradation in the dermis. MMPs include collagenase which specifically decomposes particular collagens or other proteins in the extracellular matrix of the dermis.

Collagenase is really a group of enzymes which are responsible for breaking down the different types of collagen and elastin. The formation of MMPs may be stimulated by internal growth factors and inflammatory modulators, as well as exposure to UV radiation. Within hours of UV exposure, the MMP genes are activated, resulting in the biosynthesis of collagenase and other MMPs. As skin ages, its ability to replenish collagen and elastin naturally slows and skin loses strength and tone. Dehydration also occurs as the ability to replenish hyaluronic acid also diminishes. AGE Smart™ slows the formation of MMPs and stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid with the inclusion of soy, peptides, polyphenols (from white tea), vitamin C and yeast extract.

AGEs occur as a result of sugar molecules in the body reacting with proteins such as collagen. AGEs cause collagen to cross-link leading to stiff proteins with a loss of elasticity. As the body is incapable of destroying AGEs, this cross-linking causes dramatic skin ageing. During the forming of AGEs, additional ROS (free radicals) are created which contributes to the ageing process. AGE Smart™ uses a unique and specific peptide (LYS/ARG polypeptide) combined with glucosamine and soy isoflavonoids to trap excess sugar molecules, preventing the formation of AGEs. In the process, the generation of ROS associated with AGE formation is also subdued.

The AGE Smart™ range includes five new products for home use and five existing products with updated formulations, complete the set. The new products are:

• Skin Resurfacing Cleanser (£27.20) – a dual-action cleanser which thoroughly cleanses and exfoliates skin in one easy step. Retexturises skin by accelerating cell turnover whilst fortifying skin’s natural moisture barrier. Contains AHA lactic acid to exfoliate surface cells, leaving a smoother, polished surface receptive to subsequent active ingredients whilst helping hydrate and brighten. Soothing rose flower oil calms skin and vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) conditions and enhances skin softness

• Antioxidant Hydramist (£27.20) – a refreshing antioxidant shield with flash-firming properties. Supplements skin’s protective barrier by creating an active antioxidant shield to fight damaging ROS. Arginine/Lysine polypeptide helps prevent the signs of ageing caused by AGEs whilst magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) provides critical antioxidant protection and inhibits MMP enzymes contributing to collagen breakdown. White tea, liquorice and vitamin E shield against free radicals whilst aloe and sodium lactate provide moisture for the skin

• MAP-15 Regenerator™ (£60.00) – a revolutionary powder-to-emulsion treatment which delivers a high concentration of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) directly into the skin, dramatically improving skin firmness and clarity. Hyaluronic acid provides intense skin hydration whilst yeast extract helps stimulate wound healing, collagen formation and increases oxygen utilisation in skin

• Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF30 (£47.00) – a medium-weight, emollient daily moisturisers enabling absolute hydration and defense against the contributing causes of skin ageing. Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 over-rides the inhibitory effects of MMPs on collagen synthesis whilst activating tissue growth factor (TGF), a peptide which is required in its active state for collagen production to occur. Oenothera biennis (evening primrose oil), a source of gamma linoleic acid, helps prevent skin sensitisation by reinforcing skin’s natural barrier lipid layer and helps retain hydration levels. Also contains colloidal oatmeal and chrysanthemum parthenium extract to calm irritated skin

• Renewal Lip Complex (£19.40) – a daily treatment which restores delicate tissue, minimises contour lines and helps prevent the signs of ageing. Superior conditioning lasts hours beyond application and is ideal for wearing alone or as a smoothing primer before lipstick application. Contains palmitoyl oligopeptides to condition skin and stimulate collagen formation, minimising fine lines. Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, persea gratissima (avocado) oil, oryza sativa (rice) bran oil, triticum vulgare (wheat) germ oil and butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) are emollient and vitamin-rich plant lipids which smooth and condition lip tissue whilst helping to prevent dehydration

The remainder of the range includes existing Dermalogica hero products which help with premature ageing:

• MultiVitamin Power Concentrate – formulation of pure, concentrated vitamins A,C and E which enhances the skin’s natural repair process

• MultiVitamin Power Recovery Masque – a powerful calming masque of concentrated vitamins and botanicals to calm stressed skin, helping to reduce redness and restore suppleness

• MultiVitamin Power Firm For Eye & Lip Area – a powerful firming complex of skin-rebuilding antioxidant vitamins, protective organic silicones and seaweed extract to combat visible lines around the eye and lip areas

• Super Rich Repair – a super-concentrated, heavy-weight cream which combats chronically dry, dehydrated and prematurely-ageing skin conditions whilst it repairs and protects

• Power Rich™ – a potent moisturising treatment which stimulates collagen production, helping to increase firmness and elasticity

All Dermalogica products take into account an understanding of modern skin stress and active, busy lifestyles. The professionally recommended products do not involve complicated and outdated rituals. What distinguishes Dermalogica from other skin care ranges is the recognition that your skin is as individual as you are. Dermalogica products use highly active ingredients, are not animal tested – and they work.

For stockist details, please call 0800 591818 (UK number)