Spray away the years – ELIXIR trys the latest new age perfumes

If perception is indeed the only reality, then you can literally spray away the years.

According to Dr Lan Hirsch, Director of the Smell & Taste Tretment and Research Foundation in Chicago, it only takes a few sprays of a certain perfume to change someone’s perception of your age.

Dr Hirsch has spent more than 25 years researching the human sense of smell and creating blends of scents. His own invention Timeless View contains the anti-ageing smell of pink grapefruit, which he says particularly affects men’s perception of a woman’s age.

He advises misting yourself with a few sprays of the pleasant perfume to reduce anxiety and elevate a sense of well-being among men who smell it. “They will think you are more than six years younger than you are!” he says.

“The aroma appears to convince the male brain to take a more optimistic view of the physical attributes of women wearing it. Interestingly, it doesn’t work on women viewing men or on women with other women.

“The rejuvenation effect of the pink grapefuit aroma can be explained by considering the impact of odours on men’s visual perceptions and sexual arousal.”

The notion that perfumes can be anti-ageing, not just in terms of how they smell but also in the way they affect your skin, is a new trend being taken up by the big perfume companies.

An unusual product to hit the market, is Smiley by Arthes of France, which claims to be an anti-depressant perfume. The ingredients: phenylethylamine and theobromine work together to set off feelings of joy and excitment, while blocking the chemicals that trigger stress.

Shelagh Foyle, Perfumier at ‘young’ and ‘old’ is influenced by the decade in which you were born.

“I grew up in the era of youth products such as Brut and Charlie. I suspect neither of these would be seen as young fragrances if launched today. At the other end of the spectrum, lavender used to be for grandma, but today it is a keynote in baby care. The fruit and musk notes that are increasingly popular in modern perfumery tend to be associated with ‘inexpensive’ for those who remember Dewberry or White Musk from The Body Shop. This is not the case for today’s younger generation where the link is with celebrity fragrances.”

However some fragrances have an enduring quality, like Chanel No5 or Special No27 by Floris, and are used by every generation. Classic fragrances are ones that people ‘grow’ into. There is an analogy with wine where you start out with the lighter, fruitier varieties and, as your palate develops, you discover the joys of heavier, spicier, more intense vintages.

The most important factor with fragrance is that it is your choice and your taste that counts. Everyone is an individual – everyone has their own set of fragrance memoris that will invoke positive or negative emotions.

Daisy Silver Eau de Toilette by Marc Jacobs

A fresh fragrance with top notes of wild strawberry, violet leaves and ruby red grapefruit, modern vintage heart notes of violet, jasmine and gardenia with a smooth and sensual base of vanilla, musk and white woods.

Marc Jacobs’s new Daisy fragrance is meant to be “happy and youthful”, and “more accessible than the signature range” and “sophisticated but not too serious”. In other words, it’s meant to bring younger consumers into the Marc Jacobs fold. Although the target age is said to be 18-24 it does work well for most ages.

We loved the bottle too. Our verdict 7/10. Costs around £58 for 100ml.

White Tea Eau de Toilette by Berkeley Square Cosmetics

White Tea has top notes of fresh tea, lemon zest and gardenia add zest with base notes of Musk and Tonka Beans add pure indulgence. Although it harks back to a bygone age it is meant to eptimise the gay young things of the 1920s who danced the night away flapper style.

It was a time of dazzling high society; country house retreats all set to the swing of the Charleston and the dulcet tones of Gershwin and Cole Porter and for true lovers a nightingale singing in Berkeley Square. It’s often hailed as the most extravagant decade of the 20th century – so it’s no wonder Berkeley Square Cosmetics have dedicated a whole range of luxurious fragrance and bathing products in its honour.

New Tea – our verdict 7/10. Costs £12 for 50ml. Buy online at www.bsquare.co.uk. Also on sale at Fenwicks and Fortnum & Mason London.

Eau de Parfum No 2 “Vivacité(s) de Bach”

From the makers of the famous Bach herbal remedies, this is a perfume that lifts your spirits with positive energy

This invigorating fragrance will fill you with positive energy. Made with certified organic flower essences this perfume will bring joy, clarity and vitality. Featuring Top notes of Gorse and Gentian, Heart notes of White Chestnut, Olive and Hornbeam together with Base notes of Larch and Mustard.
The cheerful and spicy bouquet of Vivacité (s) promotes clarity and vitality by stimulating confidence, inner strength and a sense of purpose.

Our verdict 6/10. 100ml and 50ml natural sprays, RRP: £59.50 and £44.50 www.LesFleursDeBach.co.uk

Juliette has a Gun by Romano Ricci

Juliette has a Gun – is chic range of fragrances from Romano Ricci, of the French perfume dynasty Nina Ricci. Inspired by the Shakespearean heroine, ‘’Juliette has a Gun’’ is a series of romantic fragrances, with the essence of oils from the Bulgarian rose at its heart.

Lady Vengence is my personal favourite – it has a lovely but not overpowering fragrance made from the rose, with patchouli and vanilla which together become a feminine, sensual and sophisticated scent.

Miss Charming is a provocative femme-fatale with Moroccan Rose, musk and wild fruits. The packaging is also very special – black mock suede.

The creator of this new range Romano Ricci is only 29years old and learned perfumery secrets from his grandfather Robert Ricci. Young, fresh and sassy.

Our verdict on Lady Vengeance 9/10
Prices Lady Vengeance/Miss Charming: Available in 100ml £60.00 and 50ml £40.00. Available in exclusive stores – in the UK Selfridge’s London