Deritivatives of Vitamin A such as retinyl palmitate and retinly linoleate have gained popularity with manufacturers becausethey are thought to work like Retin A but with less irritation.

Green and black tea both contain polyphenolic acid which fights free radicals and is increasingly used in skin care.

A retinoid used in the treatment of psoriasis and acne. It works by keeping the pores clear, lessening redness and reducing the size of the affected area.

One of the beta hydroxy acids (see above) that is used in anti-ageing creams.

Contains a derivative of Vitamin A. It is manufactured in a cosmetic base under the trade name Renova by US Ortho Pharmaceuticals. It has found to be less irritating than Retin A. Both should be used sparingly.

A derivative of Vitamin A widely used in anti-ageing creams. First used as an anti-acne cream and still only has official approval for this use. The downside is that users need to wear sun-block and it can irritate the skin – itchiness and redness. Probably not suitable for sensitive skins or during pregnancy because of the risk that Vitamin A may cause birth defects.

Extracted from the bark of the French maritime pine contains antioxidents which neutralise free radicals and assist in stopping the breakdown of two main elements in the skin – elastin and collagen.

These are made from plant extracts – bilberry, pine bark, grapeseed – and are antioxidents which can be applied to the skin in creams to combat free radicals.

A member of the fruit acid family also used for brightening the skin but is better tolerated by those with rosacea or dermatitis.

A free-radical scavenger found in some red fruit and vegetables including tomatoes, watermelon, pink grapefruit, red guava and red grapes.

A form of Vitamin C that destroys free radicals.

A polysaccharide found in the body’s tissues and used as a moisturiser.

Include glycerine, sorbitol, squalene and urea

Enzymes are a type of protein and some skin care products include those from plant sources such as the pineapple (bromelian) and papaya (papain) to exfolitate the skin.

Contains collagen, linolenic and oleic acids and promotes the growth of healthy skin tissue.

Part of the skin’s connective tissue and in topical creams helps keep moisture in.

An antioxident close to Vitamin E in structure, CoQ10 is a fat-soluble vitamin-like substance present in every cell of the body. It also occurs naturally in a number of foods, including organ meats, soy oil, sardines, mackerel and peanuts. It is a powerful antioxidant and acts as a coenzyme for several of the key steps in the production of energy within every cell. Low levels of CoQ10 have been linked to several diseases. Low levels are attributed to an insufficient dietary intake combined with an inability of the body to manufacture its own. A number of commonly prescribed medications can also affect levels including statins (used to treat high cholesterol), beta-blockers and tricyclic antidepressants.

CoQ10 has been particularly successful in the area of cardiac health. It is found in fairly high concentrations in healthy hearts. Conversely, low levels are associated with congestive heart failure. It is also thought that low levels may also be the main cause in heart failure. It has also helpful in reducing blood pressure and heart rate and associated conditions, as well as peridontal disease. It has no known side-effects.

A natural constituent of skin. Collagen in creams acts a humectant encouraging moisture to stay within the skin.

A natural constituent of the skin that assists in its condition

A mineral which activates an antioxidant skin enzyme superoxide dismutase helping to stimulate collagen production.

Bioactives

Beta hydroxy acid is reported to improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin after at least 6 months of daily application. Although they also peel the skin, they are kinder that Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

The Difference Between Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids

The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acid is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore. Because of this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin. Alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.

Similar to retinoids and with skin-lighting properties Azelic acid is used to treat mild to moderate acne. It works in part by stopping the growth of bacteria in the skin and also helps by keeping the pores clear. It is only available with a doctor’s prescription.

Antioxidents are a large category of nutrients and herbs – vitamins, minerals and other supplements which help the body fight cell damage caused by free radicals (unstable atoms in cells), including ageing and diseases. Antioxidents neutralise free radicals. These nutrients nclude vitamins A, C and E, zinc and selenium. Scientists believe that antioxidents give the skin time to repair itself from damage caused by pollution and UVA light.

ALPHA-LIPOIC ACID

A major cause of ageing is the decline in the energy-producing capability of cells which results in reduced metabolic activity and eventually cell death. This is a highly potent antioxidant that fights free radicals and since it is both water and fat soluable means that it can penetrate to all parts of a cell. This enzyme helps cell metabolism, general vitality and production of collagen. It is usually taken in combination with acetyl-L-carnitine, an amino acid that assists the transport of fat into the mitachondria of the cell. As an antioxident it is also used in anti-ageing skin creams.

This supplement is not recommended during pregnancy or for diabetics who are glucose intolerant. It should not be taken after 5pm as it is a stimulant and could keep you from sleeping. It is also in the following foods – spinach, liver brewer’s yeast, beef and potatoes.