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Creams & Potions

    A moisturiser and a supplement which is used to improve memory and protect the liver....
    A natural skin-lightening agent found in a Japanese mushroom. It works by blocking the formation of pigment. It is used for toning the skin, lightening age spots, freckles and general pigmentation problems on the face and body. ...
    A synthetic antioxident that resembles co-enzyme Q-10 but has smaller molecules, allowing to be more easily absorbed by the skin. Its manufacturers claim it is more powerful than any known antioxident....
    DMAE DMAE, or dimethylaminoethanol (chemical name deanol), is a compound found in high levels in oily fish such as anchovies, sardines and salmon. It is also produced in small amounts by the human brain. It is sold as a food supplement to boost brain function and is thought to be helpful in attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD). Doctors are also looking at its role in treating poor memory and Alzheimer’s Disease, as well as some movement disorders. The supplement was originally researched as a treatment for ADHD and early studies in the 1970s revealed that it was helpful for children...
    Beta Glucan is a powerful immune stimulator which is also effective in the diet in preventing coronary heart disease by lowering blood cholesterol and increasing good cholesterol levels. It is found in mushrooms, barley, oats and yeast. ...
    For the food sources and explanations of these supplements see Diet and also Anti-Ageing Elixirs Vitamins: A, B complex including folate acid and biotin,C (L-Asorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Palmitate) and vitamin E Minerals:Calcium, chromium, magnesium, selenium and zinc Amino Acids and other supplements: L-Carnitine, acetyl-L-Carnitine, Coenzyme Q10, Glutamine, OPC (grapeseed extract/pycnogenol), GLA, tumeric, DMAE Useful books to read: Nicholas Perricone's The Perricone Prescription in which the renowned dermatologist explains his three day nutrional facelift based around the "magic bullet" for skin - DMAE found in the skin of wild salmon and The Wrinkle Cure....
    Like vitamin C, vitamin E is an antioxident...
    This is a combination of Vitamin C with palmitic acid (a fatty acid derived from palm oil) which is more easily absorbed by the skin. It is a powerful antioxident which can help skin heal, particularly skin which has been sun burnt....
    An antioxident which is applied to the skin to neutralise free radicals. Topical Vitamin C encourages collagen production and repair. But can burn and irritate the skin as well as loosing its potency when exposed to the air....
    Deritivatives of Vitamin A such as retinyl palmitate and retinly linoleate have gained popularity with manufacturers becausethey are thought to work like Retin A but with less irritation....

    Tea

    Green and black tea both contain polyphenolic acid which fights free radicals and is increasingly used in skin care....
    A retinoid used in the treatment of psoriasis and acne. It works by keeping the pores clear, lessening redness and reducing the size of the affected area....
    One of the beta hydroxy acids (see above) that is used in anti-ageing creams....
    Contains a derivative of Vitamin A. It is manufactured in a cosmetic base under the trade name Renova by US Ortho Pharmaceuticals. It has found to be less irritating than Retin A. Both should be used sparingly....
    A derivative of Vitamin A widely used in anti-ageing creams. First used as an anti-acne cream and still only has official approval for this use. The downside is that users need to wear sun-block and it can irritate the skin - itchiness and redness. Probably not suitable for sensitive skins or during pregnancy because of the risk that Vitamin A may cause birth defects....
    Extracted from the bark of the French maritime pine contains antioxidents which neutralise free radicals and assist in stopping the breakdown of two main elements in the skin - elastin and collagen. ...
    These are made from plant extracts - bilberry, pine bark, grapeseed - and are antioxidents which can be applied to the skin in creams to combat free radicals....
    A member of the fruit acid family also used for brightening the skin but is better tolerated by those with rosacea or dermatitis....
    A free-radical scavenger found in some red fruit and vegetables including tomatoes, watermelon, pink grapefruit, red guava and red grapes. ...
    A form of Vitamin C that destroys free radicals....
    A polysaccharide found in the body's tissues and used as a moisturiser....
    Include glycerine, sorbitol, squalene and urea...
    Enzymes are a type of protein and some skin care products include those from plant sources such as the pineapple (bromelian) and papaya (papain) to exfolitate the skin. ...
    Contains collagen, linolenic and oleic acids and promotes the growth of healthy skin tissue....
    Part of the skin's connective tissue and in topical creams helps keep moisture in....
    An antioxident close to Vitamin E in structure, CoQ10 is a fat-soluble vitamin-like substance present in every cell of the body. It also occurs naturally in a number of foods, including organ meats, soy oil, sardines, mackerel and peanuts. It is a powerful antioxidant and acts as a coenzyme for several of the key steps in the production of energy within every cell. Low levels of CoQ10 have been linked to several diseases. Low levels are attributed to an insufficient dietary intake combined with an inability of the body to manufacture its own. A number of commonly prescribed medications can...
    A natural constituent of skin. Collagen in creams acts a humectant encouraging moisture to stay within the skin....
    A natural constituent of the skin that assists in its condition...
    A mineral which activates an antioxidant skin enzyme superoxide dismutase helping to stimulate collagen production....
    Bioactives...
    Beta hydroxy acid is reported to improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin after at least 6 months of daily application. Although they also peel the skin, they are kinder that Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) The Difference Between Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acid is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are...
    Similar to retinoids and with skin-lighting properties Azelic acid is used to treat mild to moderate acne. It works in part by stopping the growth of bacteria in the skin and also helps by keeping the pores clear. It is only available with a doctor's prescription....
    Antioxidents are a large category of nutrients and herbs - vitamins, minerals and other supplements which help the body fight cell damage caused by free radicals (unstable atoms in cells), including ageing and diseases. Antioxidents neutralise free radicals. These nutrients nclude vitamins A, C and E, zinc and selenium. Scientists believe that antioxidents give the skin time to repair itself from damage caused by pollution and UVA light....
    ALPHA-LIPOIC ACID A major cause of ageing is the decline in the energy-producing capability of cells which results in reduced metabolic activity and eventually cell death. This is a highly potent antioxidant that fights free radicals and since it is both water and fat soluable means that it can penetrate to all parts of a cell. This enzyme helps cell metabolism, general vitality and production of collagen. It is usually taken in combination with acetyl-L-carnitine, an amino acid that assists the transport of fat into the mitachondria of the cell. As an antioxident it is also used in anti-ageing skin...
    Vitamin E, oil based antioxident that is a moisturiser...
    Includes lactic, citric, malic, glycolic and tartaric acids.These acids are a natural derivative of fruit such as apples and grapes, sour milk, wine or sugar cane or can be synthetically made. Brighten the complexion by peeling off the dead top layer of skin and speeding up cell renewal. They are sometimes too harsh for sensitive skins but there are new brands of cosmetics which now use very small quantities. A sunscreen should be worn when using AHAs as it makes the skin more sensitive to sun. AHAs work on the skin by breaking down the dead skin cells to reveal...
    Comeceuticals - the new Skin Elixirs Discoveries made by dermatologists whilst treating serious skin diseases and burns are being utlised in the fight against skin ageing. This has resulted in a new generation of skincare creams known as cosmeceuticals many made by US-based companies and so-called because they bridge the gap between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Many of the ingredients in cosmeceuticals are not new but scientists have been able to exploit new technologies to deliver them deep in living cells. Many of these elixirs are the same ones that we need to take as supplements or contained in elixir...

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