Jargon Buster

A technique in which a laser is used to "vaporise" superficial layers of the skin to reveal younger and newer skin.

A powerful drug used to treat Acne.

Acne is a skin condition which usually affects the face but can also break out on other parts of the body. It usually occurs in adolescence as a result of changes in hormonal balance. Treatment may include drugs.

Substance that causes an allergic reaction, such as pollen pictured right.

A particular hairloss condition which usually results in total hairloss

These are a group of acids found in foods such as milk and fruit, and can be applied to the skin to remove dead cells and improve skin texture. The tropical fruit papaya is very rich in AHA.

Antibiotics are medicine that kill bacteria or slow the growth of bacteria. They are used to cure diseases. Penicillin, pictured, is a popular antibiotic. Antibiotics can not stop a virus.

Argeriline (cetyl Hexapeptide-3) - is another substance that temporarily inhibits the activity of neurotransmitters responsible for facial muscle contractions, preventing the formation of wrinkles. It works without toxic side-effects.

Also known as Salicylic acid this is a mild exfoliant that helps peel off dead layers of the skin. Beware if you have an aspirin allergy.

Cosmetic surgery of the upper and lower eyelid

This is the brand name for a form of botulinum toxin that is injected into muscles to bring about temporary and partial paralysis - this helps eliminate wrinkle lines around the eyes, forehead and neck. Botox is also used in cases of excess persperation and other serious medical conditions.

A cosmetic surgery operation to remove excess fat from the upper arms

A browlift tightens loose skin, or removes excess skin so that you have a smooth forehead. This raises the eyebrows giving a more youthful look and the muscles that cause the deep furrowing may be removed. This procedure may be accompanied with a upper and/or eyelift surgery or a facelift.

Deposits of dimpled fat just beneath the skin that usually only affects females. Cellulite can be reduced by diet and exercise.

These are another innovative ingredient for restoring youthful skin is a high concentration of ceramides, or lipids similar to those found in cell membranes and brain tissues. These oily lipids are essential in maintaining the protective functions of the skin’s outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum.

Ceramides play an important role in generating and sustaining the water permeability barrier in the skin.As such, they are important for improving skin hydration, reducing susceptibility to irritation, and restoring skin integrity.

Youthful skin is noticeably bright and glowing largely because it is well hydrated. Unfortunately, ceramide concentrations in the skin decline with age, leading to dry, rough skin.6 Topical application of ceramides has been shown to capture and bind water, which is required for the skin to remain supple, smooth, and hydrated.

A solution, applied to the skin, that causes the top layers to peel off. These can be made of fruit acids and can be very strong or mild, depending on the individual requirement.

The protein in the skin that makes it look youthful and radiant.

Usually a wrinkle cream that has sophisticated ingredients far beyond a run-of-the mill product.

An operation, using a freezing technique, which can be major or minor, to remove tissue such as a mole or a skin tag or other.

A non-surgical skin resurfacing procedure in which a top layer of the skin is removed.

Evolence is a facial filler made from porcine collagen and is injected into shallow lines and wrinkles. More information at www.evolenence.com

A cell from which skin tissue develops.

A destructive molecule which because it has a missing atom seeks to scavenge healthy cells to find a replacement. See Antioxidants

Gamma-aminobutyric Acid (GABA) is the body's natural muscle-relaxing agent, this ingredient is a neurotransmission inhibitor, which instantaneously relaxes muscle contractions that cause wrinkles and fine lines in the skin. It is used as an alternative to BOTOX.

Glycolic, Hyaluronic Acids Aid Skin Texture, Appearance

As people grow older, they often notice that their skin becomes dry and discolored. Glycolic acid and hyaluronic acid may help to alleviate these signs of skin aging.

Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is considered the most powerful of the skin-rejuvenating fruit acids called alpha-hydroxy acids. Glycolic acids helps trap moisture in the skin, promote collagen formation, and release the buildup of dead skin cells to reveal brighter, younger-looking skin. Widely used as an anti-aging agent for the skin, glycolic acid has demonstrated its efficacy in numerous studies.

Read more »

Growth factors are proteins that repair and preserve tissue and stimulate production.

Areas in the skin in which the hair shaft and sebaceous glands are found.

Another important and innovative ingredient in skin care is hyaluronic acid. A large sugar-like molecule found in every tissue of the body, hyaluronic acid is particularly important to the skin’s extracellular matrix, where it attracts and binds with water and its gel-like structure provides volume and fullness for the skin. Hyaluronic acid is thus crucial for maintaining smoothness and moisture in the skin.

Hyaluronic acid also stimulates wound healing and helps protect wounds from free-radical damage. A study at the Wound Healing Center in Brescia, Italy, revealed that topically administered hyaluronic acid permeates the skin and provides powerful antioxidant protection against free radicals.36 This bolsters the skin’s ability to heal from cuts and abrasions.

Glycolic and hyaluronic acids thus provide crucial antioxidant protection to the skin, restoring healthy texture, color, and moisture content.

Hyperpigmentation is when darker patches occur on the skin. This can be caused by hormones, skin injury or sun exposure. It commonly occurs on Asian skin.

Idebenone is a man-made antioxidant, similar to Co Q10, which was originally used to preserve transplant organs. It is widely used in topical anti-wrinkle creams.

Idebenone Fights Photoaging, Improves Skin Health

As adults age, their skin is more likely to exhibit the effects of photoaging, which produces negative changes in skin color, texture, and health caused by cumulative exposure to ultraviolet light. New findings suggest that antioxidant-rich, high-energy compounds may help defend against the effects of photoaging.

Free radicals damage not only proteins and DNA, but also the skin’s surface lipids. Made up of a complex mixture of sebum (an oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands) and small amounts of epidermal lipids, these surface lipids provide the body’s outermost protection against oxidative damage.

Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is a fat-soluble antioxidant that helps prevent free-radical damage to the skin’s surface lipids. However, CoQ10 concentrations in skin decline significantly in older people.9 The loss of this protective nutrient is a likely cause of the increased incidences of skin diseases and photoaging seen in aging adults.

In fact, an eight-year Italian study found a direct link between CoQ10 levels and the progression of melanoma, the deadliest of skin cancers.Not only were CoQ10 concentrations in people with melanoma lower than in healthy subjects, but patients whose cancer spread (metastasized) to other tissues had CoQ10 levels below those of the metastasis-free subgroup. Clearly, CoQ10 is an important protective nutrient for aging skin.

Recognizing the importance of CoQ10 in skin health, scientists searched for related compounds that can confer even greater benefits to the skin. This search led to idebenone, a nutritional cousin, or analogue, of CoQ10. Since idebenone is a smaller molecule than CoQ10, it is better suited to penetrating the skin, where it can confer important protective effects.

Idebenone has been shown to produce clinically visible improvements in photodamaged skin. In a study of 41 female subjects aged 30-65, applying idebenone to the face in the morning and evening for six weeks reduced skin roughness and dryness by 26%, and decreased fine lines and wrinkles by 29%.The subjects also exhibited a 37% increase in skin hydration and a 33% overall improvement in assessment for photodamaged skin. These improvements were primarily seen in the epidermis, though there was some increase in dermal collagen as well. Skin biopsies revealed decreased levels of an inflammatory protein, a change associated with the stimulation of collagen production. Topically applied idebenone thus improves numerous markers of skin health while reducing the visible signs of aging.

Idebenone may protect the skin through its potent antioxidant effects.One research team studied various antioxidants to gauge their protective effects against oxidative stress. They found that idebenone was the most effective antioxidant studied, providing more protection than CoQ10, vitamin E, kinetin, vitamin C, or lipoic acid.This antioxidant quality allows idebenone to inhibit lipid peroxidation, thus protecting skin cell lipids and membranes.

Topical use of idebenone represents an important step forward in scientifically based skin care. Through its antioxidant effects, idebenone helps protect skin from the effects of oxidative stress and photoaging, restoring moisture, refining texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and promoting a more youthful appearance.

An overly enlarged scar - this is more common in darker skin types. They have be very small and very large. Most can be removed by surgery.

A natural substance in the skin and muscles. Lactic acid is a fuel for the muscles, producing it from glucose, and they burn it to obtain energy. The reason trained athletes can perform so hard and so long is because their intense training causes their muscles to adapt so they more readily and efficiently absorb lactic acid.

A sore on the skin caused by disease or injury.

A local anaesthetic applied topically to the skin. Also known as xylocaine.

A liposome is a tiny bubble made out of the same material as a cell membrane. Liposomes can be filled with drugs, and used to deliver drugs for cancer and other diseases. They are used in the cosmetic industry to deliver wrinkle creams onto the skin.

A cosmetic surgery treatment in which fat is removed from the face and or body through an incision in the skin.

An operation in which cancerous tissue is removed

A cosmetic surgery treatment in which fat is removed from the face and or body through an incision in the skin.

Loose skin and fluid that tends to occur below the eye as we age.

A breast X-ray specifically to detect cancer.

These are the creases that form down from the nose to the mouth

Matrixyl™ 3000 is a unique ingredient that consists of peptides, or short amino acid chains. It helps to lift the skin, thus minimizing the appearance of wrinkles. Matrixyl™ 3000 contains two different peptides, known as matrikines, that act as cellular messengers to promote skin restructuring and repair. These biochemicals interact with specific receptors to activate genes that are involved in cell proliferation and renewal of the collagen-rich extracellular matrix (the connective tissue between cells that provides crucial support to the skin). Both healthy cells and the extracellular matrix are essential to firm, healthy skin.1 The components of Matrixyl™ 3000 work synergistically to help restore and maintain the skin’s youthful appearance.

When cells that produce collagen and elastin were incubated for 72 hours with Matrixyl™ 3000, they synthesized significantly greater amounts of extracellular matrix, the protein-rich skeleton that provides structural support to skin. Enhancing the extracellular matrix helps “plump up” the skin, minimizing the appearance of wrinkles and creases. A clinical trial with 46 volunteers, aged 39-74, demonstrated the visible effects of Matrixyl™ 3000. After eight weeks of two daily applications of Matrixyl™ 3000, the participants had average reductions of 14% in skin roughness and 15% in wrinkle depth, while the surface occupied by deep wrinkles declined by 45%. An assessment of skin tone showed a 20% improvement during the same time frame.

A dangerous form of skin cancer which can be deadly

NOT ALL OMEGA 3 IS EQUAL
SO HOW CAN WE TELL THE DIFFERENCE?

Recent media reports have shown that omega 3 supplements on the UK high street vary significantly in terms of the amount of essential fatty acids they contain. Trying to cut through the confusion for consumers is becoming increasingly paramount, because omega 3 fatty acids have clear benefits for many areas of our health and lifestyle, such as heart, circulation and brain health. But we need to seek the best possible quality – and the question remains, how can we tell what’s best?

Pure concentration

An exciting new development area at the top end of the omega 3 spectrum is in high potency, high purity omega 3 marine-based supplement concentrates, which are creating new opportunities and bringing additional health benefits to consumers. They are enriched in EPA, (Eicosapentaenoic Acid), DHA (Docosahexaenoic Acid), and in some, the newly emerging DPA (Docosapentaenoic Acid), seen by experts as the next generation in omega 3 for heart health. Concentrates are distilled and refined during several processes, which also reduces the level of saturates and contaminants which may remain in more unrefined 18/12 grades.

But there’s a catch…

There is currently no globally accepted standard for the omega 3 levels required to define a fish oil product as a ‘concentrate’. Most fish oils currently on the market are based on cod liver or ‘18/12’ oils. 18/12 oils are sourced from blended fish body oils and are known as ‘18/12’ because they give an EPA/DHA ratio of 18% and 12% respectively per 1g of oil. In low-cost health supplements, they form the basis of many so-called ‘concentrates’.

What am I looking for?

Check the ingredient list on the pack to find out the content and dosage of each fatty acid. Look for more of EPA and DPA if you are taking omega 3 for heart health and DHA for brain health.

In true concentrates, fewer and smaller capsules are needed per omega 3 dose, which means that compliance is enhanced and therefore the therapeutic benefits boosted.

Typical fish oil concentrate label information shows:
Nutritional Information Amount per Softgel % RDA
Fish Oil 1200mg *
Providing Omega 3 fatty acids 720mg *
EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) 396mg *
DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) 264mg *
Other fatty acids 60mg *

There is no official RDA, but two world-renowned and respected scientific committees have offered advice on this subject:

• The UK’s JCHI (Joint Health Claims Initiative) recommends that 0.45g of long chain omega 3 fatty acids daily to help maintain a healthy heart
• The AHA (American Heart Association) recommends:
o 1-2g per day to help maintain a healthy heart
o 4g EPA + DHA per day for people with coronary heart disease

Stamp of approval
Croda has developed the PureMax sign of quality. Products displaying the PureMax logo have gone through a unique purification and concentration technology process. The process removes heavy metals, environmental pollutants and oxidative impurities to ensure the highest quality oils. The end products have minimal impurities and contain the selectively concentrated fatty acids. Higher concentration offers greater consumer convenience, improved palatability, better dose compliance and greater cost-efficiency.

So look out for the PureMax stamp of approval to ensure you are taking the best omega 3.

Visit www.puremax.info to discover more.

For further information and to receive a comprehensive omega 3 information pack, please contact Claire or Stephen at Fuel PR on 020 7498 8211. Experts available for interview.

• References:
o Arterburn LM, Bailey E, Oken H; Distribution, interconversion, and dose response of n-3 fatty acids in human, Am J Clin Nutr, 2006, 83, 1467S-76S
o Barton CL, Next-Generation Nutraceuticals . Food and pharma convergence in disease prevention and personalized nutrition, Business Insights Ltd, 2006
o Calder PC, Grimble RF; Polyunsaturated fatty acids, inflammation and immunity, European Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2002, 26 Suppl 3, S14-S19.

WHAT IS OMEGA 3?
ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW AND MORE!
Getting the balance right!

There are three types of fat: saturated, monosaturated and polyunsaturated which divide into two groups of essential fatty acids (EFA’s): omega 3 and omega 6 - essential because the body cannot make them on its own – between which there needs to be a strict balance. Today’s Western diet has resulted in an imbalance between the essential fats which holds potentially detrimental effects to long-term health.

Before trans fats and processed foods were added to our diets, the ratio of omega 6 to omega 3 fats was about 4:1 – a ratio associated with a 70% decrease in total mortality rate in the secondary prevention of heart disease. One recent study found that the ratio of omega 6 to omega 3 fats consumed today was closer to 16:1.

Other researchers say that the typical Western diet contains 11-30 times more omega 6 than omega 3 fats. And in a study of asthmatic patients, a 10:1 ratio was associated with adverse conditions.

Why does this matter? When the ratio between them becomes imbalanced, that is, when omega 6s overwhelm the omega 3s, the body experiences inflammation, which can result in serious chronic inflammatory conditions, such as heart disease, cancer, diabetes, hypertension, arthritis, asthma and some auto-immune disorders.

The basics

Your daily intake of omega 3 can come from oily fish such as salmon, herring, mackerel, sardines and fresh tuna plus certain plant oils, such as olive and flax. As a guideline, the Department of Health recommends 2-3 portions of oily fish per week for adults.

On average, people in the UK eat only a third of a portion of oily fish a week. Over seven out of 10 do not eat any at all. The table below indicates mean % UK population consumption of fish per week:

Consumption/week Males Females Total
Total Fish 28.5% 22.5% 25.2%
White Fish 31.2% 21.3% 25.7%
Oily Fish (excl. canned tuna) 26.4% 23.6% 24.8%
Shellfish 17.6% 15.8% 16.6%

For those who find it difficult to consume the advised weekly fish allowance, especially for those who are not keen on eating fish, or as an additional fish source for those who do, omega 3 supplements are an ideal option. The best choices come in a concentrated liquid or capsule format and adults should take at least the Joint Health Claims Initiative (JCHI), recommendation of 450mg per day to gain the maximum benefit.

Not all omega 3 is equal
Omega 3 supplements are made up of three main long chain fatty acids, EPA, DPA and DHA which come in different concentrations and at different price points. To ensure that you get the best out of your supplement you should take one with the highest concentration of the fatty acid that meets your needs:

Signs of best quality
Check the ingredient list on the pack to find out the content and dosage of each fatty acid. Look for more of EPA and DPA if you are taking omega 3 for heart health and DHA for brain health. Remember you are looking for a minimum omega 3 content of 450mg for the supplement to be beneficial.

Croda has developed the PureMax sign of quality. Products displaying the PureMax logo have gone through a unique purification and concentration technology process. The process removes heavy metals, environmental pollutants and oxidative impurities to ensure the highest quality oils. The end products have minimal impurities and contain the selectively concentrated fatty acids. Higher concentration offers greater consumer convenience, improved palatability, better dose compliance and greater cost-efficiency.

Benefits of the key fatty acids

EPA (Eicosapentaenoic Acid)
• Helps improve blood flow, reducing the risk of heart attack or stroke
• EPA has been shown to impart an antithrombotic effect by reducing blood clotting
• Proven to have preventative effects on atherosclerosis (hardening of the arteries)
• Dietary intake of EPA can improve the balance of LDL and HDL cholesterol
• Dietary intervention with EPA may reduce vascular inflammation which can alleviate rheumatoid arthritis and reduce joint inflammation
• EPA contains mood balancing properties and can enhance brain function

DHA (Docosahexaenoic Acid)
• Improving brain function – DHA has been shown to improve mood disorders such as depression and positively affect mental function and curb aggression
• DHA supports eye health, helping to improve overall eye function
• Pregnant and nursing mothers can improve the intelligence and happiness of their babies with DHA
• Like EPA, DHA can improve cardiovascular health help lower blood pressure
• Can improve the health of skin, nails and hair
• Can help prevent the development of allergies and protect against the symptoms of hay fever, sinus infections, asthma, food allergies and eczema

DPA (Docosapentaenoic Acid)
• DPA stimulates endothelial cell migration with an effect up to 10 times greater than EPA, which may enhance the reduction of atherosclerosis
• DPA helps prevent the formation of blood clots which can block arteries and cause heart attacks or strokes
• The levels of DPA in serum phospholipids can help prevent coronary heart disease
• DPA has been positively linked with a reduction in the risk of peripheral arterial disease in smokers

Sources of omega 3
There are two main sources of omega 3. Marine fish oil and a vegetarian source of omega 3 containing Stearidonic Acid (SDA, C18:4 n-3) derived from echium oil.

Omega 3 is increasingly becoming a part of other food sources, largely by fortification. Fortified foods include margarine spreads, milk, yogurts, bread and certain eggs. However, to receive the JHCI recommendation of 450mg daily to help maintain a healthy heart, the amount you would need to eat of each of these is substantial. The following table illustrates how fortified foods contribute to an omega 3 enriched diet: -

Source: Croda Healthcare

It is unlikely that anyone would wish to swallow 164g of low fat spread or drink nearly two litres of milk per day. However, low levels of omega 3 can be gained from these sources; a balanced diet with a healthy awareness and intake of omega 3 fatty acids is beneficial.

• Visit www.puremax.info for up-to-the-minute information about fish oil supplements

• References:
o Arterburn LM, Bailey E, Oken H; Distribution, interconversion, and dose response of n-3 fatty acids in human, Am J Clin Nutr, 2006, 83, 1467S-76S
o Barton CL, Next-Generation Nutraceuticals . Food and pharma convergence in disease prevention and personalized nutrition, Business Insights Ltd, 2006
o Calder PC, Grimble RF; Polyunsaturated fatty acids, inflammation and immunity, European Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2002, 26 Suppl 3, S14-S19.
o Gorman C, Park A, The Secret Killer. The surprising link between inflammation and heart attacks, cancer, alzheimer’s and other diseases, TIME, 2004, Feb
o Government Articles

The ageing of the skin caused by the environment, particularly the sun and pollution.

A natural substance, that is biodegradable, that is used as a dermal filler.

Radiesse is a facial filler made from tiny microspheres of calcium hydroxylapatite, which has a consistency similar to bone and has been used safely for a number of years. It is used mainly for deeper folds, marionette lines - nose to mouth, and to fill out cheek contours and jawline.

A method of stimulating the skin's natural collagen production. Radio waves penetrate beneath the dermis causing damage to the collagen which responds by growing new, younger and firmer layers.

Restylane is a family of fillers based on hyaluronic acid, a natural polysaccharide found in the body's connective tissues. It is a non-animal bio-engineered. There are several products in the family: for fine lines and wrinkles, lips, cheeks & contours.

A skin condition in which the face becomes flushed/red and pores are enlarged.

Also known as Beta hydroxy acid this is a mild exfoliant that helps peel off dead layers of the skin. Beware if you have an aspirin allergy as it may cause a serious swelling reaction.

The removal of thread/spider veins by injecting them with a substance that causes them to shrink and collapse.

Sculptra a deep facial filler, used for holllows, folds and creases. It comes in a powder form and is reconstituted before treatment.

These are the glands at the bottom of a hair follicle which are responsible for producing oils.

Nowadays used in breast implants in a gel-like form and as a liquid injection for the face and other medical conditions.

A steriod is a hormone, such as cortisone used to reduce inflammation and swelling.

Stretch marks are scars - transparent and white, most usually occuring as a result of pregnancy. It can also be caused by being overweight, puberty and body building. They are notoriously difficult to remove completely but new therapies such as Carboxy have been successful

A powerful enzyme and cellular antioxidant that acts as a super-scavanager of dangerous free radicals by ferreting out and destroying them throughout the skin.